Thanks Barn. The evidence clearly shows from what you just pasted, I mean posted, it's Evans for me from here on out. Thanks for putting in all the long hours and staying late at the lab just for us.
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Thanks Barn. The evidence clearly shows from what you just pasted, I mean posted, it's Evans for me from here on out. Thanks for putting in all the long hours and staying late at the lab just for us.
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'86 ATC 250R, Build Thread http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...highlight=250r
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Of course I did which is why I posted the link to it at the beginning of the article, so what.
Nope, that would be ridiculous . Every test that is not performed by an independent lab should be viewed with at least some level of skepticism, however, I have never seen any test reports from a products competitors that outright lied and falsified information, however, their testing methods can be selective and some of the results that make their competitors product look better then their own can be eliminated from their reports etc.
Major companies have marketing departments whose sole purpose is to entice a buyer into buying their product.
The fact is that some of the results that NO-ROISON got are consistent within a reasonable degree to tests others have performed on Evans coolant.
Are suggesting that the claims by a mfg of their own product are 100% accurate and not possibly skewed to some degree to some degree to help sell their product?
Also, are you suggesting that just because a company does their own test of a competitors product that ALL the results they post should be ignored?
Doesn't seem like much of a "give away"" to me that NO-ROISON did the test when they stated in their report that they tested several vehicles and I included their lab info at the bottom of my post.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR
This thread reminds me of another Mickey/Barn thread on here a few years ago. It's a shame Mickey got butt hurt over some stupid stuff and erased all of his responses. I think I remember the meat and potatoes of the original post though, Mickey talked to some old Kawasaki guys who had no idea who Barn was and thought he may have actually been a janitor at Kawasaki or something along those lines? Mickey, maybe you can fill in the blanks here and enlighten some of our newer members who might not know who the real barn is. You don't really need Mickey's responses though to get a feel for what the rest of the community thinks.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php?t=163421
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'86 ATC 250R, Build Thread http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...highlight=250r
'86 "Factory Tri racing" Tri-Z http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...b-Top-Tank-ect
Pile of Tecate Parts
My Feedback Thread: http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...edback-for-bkm
First, I don't believe all the claims that ANY manufacturer makes. It's their nature to embellish or lie so the answer to that is no.
Second, yes I am suggesting that because a company does their own testing, suspicion should be the order of the day rather than benefit of the doubt. I have a whole lifetime full of products that failed to reproduce the results of 'clinical testing' in my own personal real-life scenario. I don't trust tobacco company "studies". I don't trust pharmaceutical industry "clinical trials". I don't believe Roost Boost adds 15% more horsepower because Answer's dyno said so and I don't believe anyone's in-house testing versus their competitor. This is the whole purpose for 'independent laboratories' of which there are thousands to choose from in this country.
Honestly Mike, I loved the trial report too except that it was performed by the product's competitor which left me disappointed because, in my head, I had already declared you the winner of this dick swinging contest pending who pulled off these trials. Man, I love proof and you almost had me convinced but you know as well as I do with all the outright lies and myths floating around out there we have to be picky about where the information is coming from. That's all I'm trying to say.
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I'll reply to this because it is reasonable, not infantile like bkm's posts on this thread are.
I not trying to be in competition with Mickey or anyone because there is nothing to gain and I don't have anything to prove or a desperately needy ego to feed, therefore, none of this is a "dick swinging contest" for me but it obviously is for dunlap in this case . As several people here know, there are several people on the site that he doesn't like so he often tries to one up them like he did with me in this thread as is clearly evidenced by his comments . WTF does beating me at a Mickey Thompson race have to do with Evans coolant, especially since they didn't even make it at that time so he wasn't running it, lol . Anyway, writing about him is boring me so back to your comments.
I am simply in search of the truth/facts as much as it can be weeded out from the marketing claims and potentially subjective testing etc.
Again, I never said Evans had no benefit and never disputed the results he claimed he got when trying it, therefore, it should be obvious to some here that there is absolutely no point to him going off like he has . I did not post the test results from NO-ROISON to try and discredit Evans either . I merely posted it as general info so people can make a better informed decision as to whether they want to use it or need to use it or want to get more info on it after seeing what NO-ROISON had to say about it etc.
The main problem seems to be that dunlap is debating the FACT that Evans is not much different/better than simply running straight anti freeze, and yes this is a fact, not an opinion, however, it appears that he will continue to debate this ad nauseum without posting a single shred of evidence that supports his claim that it is a lot different . My reason for telling people this is to simply save them some money if they want to run a waterless coolant . If they are going to run a GNCC National and get their rads caked up with mud then buying the coolant system cleaner from Evans for around $40.00 then buying a gallon of Evans for around $40.00 is likely a slightly better way to go, but the point there is just how many people are going to race for several hours at a time with therir rads caked full pf mud, therefore, just how many people need it?
If their bike does not overheat now, they don't need to spend $80.00 on fancy schmancy botique coolant because they do not have a problem however, dunlap is telling everyone to use it as if they "need" it and as if everyone has an extra $80.00 laying around to spend on it . I don't know what others think nor do I care, but this certainly seems wrong and a very bad suggestion to me.
If someone wants Evans coolant for their ATV, here it is on sale for only $78.00 for the complete "kit". It will cost around $45.0 more for your car or truck because it will need more coolant.
https://www.amazon.com/Evans-Coolant...1JCZHJEEB5BA27
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR
Barn, you are so blinded by your ego you can't see the forest through the trees. Everything, and I mean everything you post turns into a dick swinging contest with you if anyone dares offer a difference of opinion. Every Internet forum has the "I'm never wrong guy" and you are that guy. For Pete's sake Barn, you and Mickey are exactly alike and probably why you two can't get along with each other. You are famous across the Internet for your shenanigans, pissing contests, multiple screen names, etc. I don't have enough fingers and toes to count how many forums you've been bounced from for acting the fool. Just like Mickey. You've had threads started Internet wide calling you out for your bs. Who gets kicked off numerous forums for acting like an idiot and it's the same exact stuff on the other forums that you do here? And I'm infantile? This just isn't me Barn, this is the consensus of numerous people all across the vast Internet that have said the exact same stuff I'm saying right now, so don't flatter yourself and think this is me singling you out. The only difference is the people on the other forums sniffed out your bs early in the game and sent you packing, but in doing so you've found a home here to continue your degenerate ways.
Maybe you're just too beautiful for this world and it's the rest of us who are F'd up? I will give you kudos for one thing though, there is absolutely no shame in your game, you wear your reputation like a badge of honor and stick to your guns. You never deviate from your behavior and you are persistent in your convictions which is evident in making multiple screen names per site to continue to drive your narrative. To that sir, I tip my cap. I have way too much going on in life to devote the time to the Internet like you do.
'86 ATC 250R, Build Thread http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...highlight=250r
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Pile of Tecate Parts
My Feedback Thread: http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...edback-for-bkm
I have been wondering about this. good read
What's funny, I totally agree with Barn. For the most part I think these magical coolants are snake oil.
'86 ATC 250R, Build Thread http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...highlight=250r
'86 "Factory Tri racing" Tri-Z http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...b-Top-Tank-ect
Pile of Tecate Parts
My Feedback Thread: http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...edback-for-bkm
Since there seems to be a few people here that are truly interested in this topic, I'll post some more info on it later along with the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for one of the Evans products as I have a LOT of it and have actually posted much of this same detailed info on Evans and other coolants on this site around 2 years ago . Much of the info can also be found online along with a lot of other interesting info if you do a Google search for things like Evans waterless coolant vs antifreeze, and another search for glycol specific heat engineeringtoolbox.com or one for glycol boiling point . The engineeringtoolbox.com site has an enormous amount of technical and scientific data on a huge variety of materials and is one of the sources engineers can use to get technical specs they may need.
For now I will tell you that there is one very simple irrefutable test that you can do at home to actually see one of the differences between water and straight antifreeze and Evans coolant which is posted below . If you do this I also suggest you do it in a very well ventilated area or one that has an exhaust fan or at least place a fan facing the coolant so it can blow the fumes away because you do NOT want to be breathing these fumes even though small exposure does not pose a serious permanent health risk any more than breathing the fumes from gas when you fill up your vehicle or breathing the air in most cities these days.
1. Get a small cooking pan like around 2 quarts in size . A tall one that is small in diameter is best.
2. Get a high quality candy thermometer . Not the cheapo with the loose paper scale in it as this is about as accurate as my golf swing and I don't golf . You can also use an infra red temp gun but it may not be as accurate and can be difficult to get consistent readings with it. The reasons why are a bit complicated but it should still be adequate for this test.
3. Fill the pan from 1/2 to 2/3rds full with water . If you use a thermometer, clip it to the side of the pan with the bottom of it around 1" away from the bottom of the pan.
4. Heat the water until it boils . As it is heating, look at it periodically and write down your observations at a few different intervals like 180 degrees and 212 (the boiling point of water at sea level) . Also watch to see when it starts to form bubbles on the side of the ban and when it starts to boil . The boiling point will be lower the higher the elevation is.
5. Do this same test with the straight anti freeze and the Evans and you will have your results.
6. If you want to do additional testing you can add water to the antifreeze until it is a 50/50 mix and test that . You can also do the same with the Evans . An additional test would be to add some type of "Water Wetter" product to straight water and at least one of these antifreezes after you dilute them and observe the results although the change with the water wetters can be very hard to see as it will be fairly small . This is not to suggest that water wetter products are useless and do nothing because most do actually work and I've used some on several occasions, however, the effect they have is fairly small and not a single one of them will prevent a system from boiling over if it already boils over without it because it would be like putting a very small bandaid on a very large cut.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR
I know Right!
On the "Water Wetter" it was more of a lub for the water pump, seals etc. Water does not have proper lubricating properties. I am sure there is little to no difference in boiling point to measure. And yes if you are going to run or store in sub zero conditions that is not what it is good for. I think water has a better cooling rate than a mixed water/coolant... Yes a higher rad cap is going to increase the boiling point of the said fluid. By putting on a higher pressure rad cap is an answer(?) better/bigger rad is the answer. I guess it boils down to what you have done and what you run for most part.
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'83 200X
Chicks love guys that ride trikes
Although water wetter does lubricate the bearing in open bearing water pumps, it does nothing for the bearings in closed bearing pumps and it's primary purpose is to reduce the surface tension of the water so more of the water contacts the metal in the cooling system thereby allowing it to be more effective.
Correct.
Correct but that is not what one is looking for in the tests I posted . Wter wetter can also be added to straight water and observed as it is brought to a boil.
Yes, it is more effective . You can find the comparison info in the previous post I made on various coolants around 1 1/2 years ago or simply look up the info in the link I posted in my previous thread.
This is fairly, and unfortunately I don't have time to reply to this in detail at the moment, however, for now, I will tell you that cooling systems have limitations as to how much pressure they can handle before something blows . The higher the pressure in the system, the higher the boiling point of the coolant, however, even if an engine could run at 600 degrees for example, and you welded the radiator cap hole shut so there was no pressure relief type cap to blow, another part of the system would fail which is typically a hose, therefore, the temps and system pressure must be kept down below the threshold where the system will blow.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR