In John Deere Green...on a hot Summer night....

[Caminofeld]

So I picked up an old JD 1020 diesel with loader to help with some heavy lifting this Winter It runs good and only has 2000 hours, but it is a PAIN to start in the cold weather. It has a Thermostart, but still takes about a minute of cranking to get started in the cold. It has a factory ether hole, but I'm hesitant to use it because of possible engine damage. I'm gonna put a block heater in it this coming week, but just seeing if anyone knew of anything else I should/could do to make starting easier?

Also, the loader works but feels like it has a little cavitation. What's the best/cheapest way to reduce that?

I'm a total noob with diesel tractors and hyrdraulic implements, so please forgive me if I sound like a .

Thanks in advance!

-Eric

[AMK]

Run kerosene instead of diesel, or a mix of the two.

[Caminofeld]

I have a tank with 300 gallons of off-road diesel, but I'll try that for sure.

[Jd110]

Nice!! What year? Hope it's a good worker for you.
My '69 is gas. Things a beast that keeps going. I'm not much help, but I will say, I think that block heater will help. Both of these have block heaters and the 350 diesel gets Lucas deep clean additive in the winter. Starts right up.

Will you show us yours? I, for one, would love to see it. Cheers!!
Edit: trickle charger is good, too.

[coolpool]

As jd suggested, a fuel additive might help, at least until winter diesel is available in your area. I suggest running a fully synthetic diesel engine oil for starters, I use Shell Rotella T6 in my Cummins. A block heater is a must also. As for your hydraulics, you might need to drain the system and put new oil in and change the filter. Start with a filter change first. The suction to your pump might have a particulate screen in the holding tank, check for blockage there.

[fabiodriven]

A block heater should square you right away. They do use a decent amount of electricity though, so you might want to keep an eye on how long you have it plugged in. I used to have mine on a timer so it came on 2-3 hours before I needed to use my truck.

Don't be afraid to give it a whiff of ether if it needs it. You're far less likely to damage a diesel engine with ether. Diesels are "over built" to be as strong as possible and don't mind ether here and there.

[atc007]

Our winter diesel here is akin to water... get a GOOD treatment. I like DSC. Block heater and you will be set. A smaller engine like that will warm up in an hour to a half. We already know you have a great battery!!

[MonroeMike]

I found this, not sure if it applies to yours.

"The 1020's have a closed center hydraulic system, meaning that when the tractor is starting and fires up you will have full hydraulic pressure. On the main hydraulic pump in the front of the tractor some came with a shut off valve for cold weather starting and others did not."

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com...b1c8c07a16241d

[Scootertrash]

I thought this was a Meatloaf thread:




Some, if not all modern starting fluids contain an upper cylinder lubricant. Check the can to make sure.

[Caminofeld]

Wow, very nice JD 110! The crawler looks great too! I really have no use for one, but they've kinda been an obsession of mine for a long time. I'm going back and forth with a guy on an old International TD340 with the Drott 4 way bucket in running but super-rough shape (like needs new starter, steering clutches, reverser, etc). If I can get him down to $2k it will be mine. I only got one pic on the night I got it. She's rough, but a good worker. The nice thing is that years from now it will make a good restoration project for the kids and I.

Also got some free military trailers the other day and rigged up a pintle hitch to pull them around...

[Caminofeld]

I found this, not sure if it applies to yours.

"The 1020's have a closed center hydraulic system, meaning that when the tractor is starting and fires up you will have full hydraulic pressure. On the main hydraulic pump in the front of the tractor some came with a shut off valve for cold weather starting and others did not."



http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com...b1c8c07a16241d

Wow, thanks for digging that up! I'll look into it!

[Caminofeld]

As jd suggested, a fuel additive might help, at least until winter diesel is available in your area. I suggest running a fully synthetic diesel engine oil for starters, I use Shell Rotella T6 in my Cummins. A block heater is a must also. As for your hydraulics, you might need to drain the system and put new oil in and change the filter. Start with a filter change first. The suction to your pump might have a particulate screen in the holding tank, check for blockage there.

Thanks! I'm gonna go through it in the next week or 2 and change all the fluids/filters and DEFINITELY get a block warmer. I put some Howe's winter additive in the fuel (off-road diesel) and a 1/4 gallon of kerosene and she seems to like that.

[coolpool]

Sounds like you're on the road to recovery with your treatments! Free military trailers, how does that happen? Those little carts are awesome for putting restoration projects on or water pumps, gen sets, etc. What year is the 1 1/2 ton trailer, it looks to be in awesome shape. You could probably flip it for decent money; check on www.steelsoldiers for some price ideas if interested.

[Jd110]

I didn't know if you have any literature, this might help...

Real nice finds!!!

[tripledog]

I would love to have a trailer like the camouflage one you picked up, Caminofeld. I would pull it with my Farmall M, but I would probably need a CDL as it would become a tractor trailer. Great score you made there!