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Thread: Doing a little Tri-Z head milling!

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Prescott az
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    713
    Quote Originally Posted by bkm View Post
    We went .020 on this one, but it looks like the wrench report suggests .030.
    Wanna do mine????

    Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
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  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
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    9,014
    Quote Originally Posted by bkm View Post
    Faceplate with spacers that mount on top of the flats for the stud holes is what I was drawing up in my head.
    When he mentioned that I was thinking about multi-domes as well, like an RD 350. I wonder if you could mount a head to the tool stand and draw it across a tool that was offset in the lathe head?
    It sucks to get old

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    House Springs MO
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    5,494
    Quote Originally Posted by El Camexican View Post
    When he mentioned that I was thinking about multi-domes as well, like an RD 350. I wonder if you could mount a head to the tool stand and draw it across a tool that was offset in the lathe head?
    Mill attachment that mounts to the cross slide and run and end mill in the chuck. The old timers will tell you the only machine a true machinist needs s a lathe. In theory al lathe should be able to make itself.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    House Springs MO
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    5,494
    Quote Originally Posted by 6spdls1z28 View Post
    Wanna do mine????

    Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
    Absolutely. Shoot me a pm

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    ky
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    88
    Please post more pictures when you modify the squish band, interested to see that.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    House Springs MO
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    5,494
    Quote Originally Posted by morgan View Post
    Please post more pictures when you modify the squish band, interested to see that.
    You and me both. Lol

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Montana
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    857
    Looks Good!! I did that same thing on my Gold 175 head !! Ol Deuce
    DO the Best With What you got !



    My Feed back :cool

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    House Springs MO
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    5,494
    The liquid R head is definitely an angled plug. The faceplate idea won't work because the bolts through the bottom would interfere with the cutting process. I'm going to make sure the plug hole is in the center of the head and then turn an arbor out our round stock. Kinda hard to picture without pictures, but I'll report back.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    ohio
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    1,767
    I have some air cooled heads I want to cut and that's been my dilemma is mounting them in a why that is easily repeatable and centered.
    If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    House Springs MO
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    5,494
    Quote Originally Posted by big specht View Post
    I have some air cooled heads I want to cut and that's been my dilemma is mounting them in a why that is easily repeatable and centered.
    I'm thinking a 14mm threaded arbor up through the combustion chamber side of the head sticking out like the spark plug. Then take a chunk of round stock, internally threaded for 14mm to fit over top of the arbor and drill it for a set screw so it's always in that place. It's going to be angled too, but after its set in place, chuck the head up combustion chamber side to the left. Then turn down the round stock until it's 90 degrees to the deck surface.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    ohio
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    1,767
    That will work if the other head have the same plug angle. But that's a good idea
    If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    House Springs MO
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    5,494
    Quote Originally Posted by big specht View Post
    That will work if the other head have the same plug angle. But that's a good idea
    They'll probably be head specific.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    glendive, montana
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    1,822
    now you are just getting complicated tap the holes in the head and run bolts between them and a mounting plate.
    rectum nothin damn near killed them
    feel free to leave feed back for me here. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...06#post1119306

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    House Springs MO
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    Quote Originally Posted by muthey View Post
    now you are just getting complicated tap the holes in the head and run bolts between them and a mounting plate.
    The 250r heads are notorious for leaking around the stud holes so leaving those alone would be my first choice. I don't think guys would appreciate drilling and tapping the stud holes in their heads just to mill the surface and while my way might not even work and take a little labor to get it done, If it does work, it's a set it an forget it type deal. Plus I'm not removing the chuck, installing the faceplate, and then indicating it in. Not to mention the labor of tapping the stud holes.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
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    9,014
    I’m not sure if I’m going to be able to explain this without a drawing or sketch, but here goes anyway.

    Imagine a round plate that was the size of whatever the maximum your bed will allow on that lathe which had a short hollow shaft (pipe if you will) the largest diameter that the chuck will acsept welded to it. Now imagine that you have perforated that large round plate with a whole bunch of different hole patterns that are threaded, as well as one large one (unthreaded, maybe 1” día.)in the center.

    You would need an assortment of angled slugs that would match the angles of the various spark plugs in the heads that you planned to do machine work on. Those slugs would have the angle on one side and be cut straight on the other.

    If you only wanted to face the mounting services of the head the slugs could just have a small hole in the center that would allow you to draw at T shaped rod through the combustion chamber side of the head, through the spark plug hole and through the hole in the slug which could then be tightened with a nut. However, if you wanted to reshape combustion chambers you would need to have a rod that could thread into the spark hole from the top. Not sure if your lathe would afford enough room for that.

    One way to make the tools would be to smash a bunch of spark plugs up and just weld some threaded rods to the remaining threaded metal portion of the plugs to make your tools.

    So focusing just on a setup to face the mounting services of heads with non-perpendicular spark plug holes, the remainder of the threaded holes in that round plate would be used to thread rods, or bolts into it to press up against various points on the top side of the head which could then be locked into place with nuts. These would be used to properly locate the head parallel to the mounting plate as well as stabilize it during the machining process.

    Does this make sense?
    Last edited by El Camexican; 02-10-2018 at 11:02 AM.
    It sucks to get old

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