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Thread: Steering stem bearings ( PICTURES!!!)

  1. #16
    bp739's Avatar
    bp739 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Can you post a pic...not sure what's going on...I did'nt have any problem with the top bearing....the bottom was a little tight, but not the top.
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  2. #17
    smyers33 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Yea I'll get a pic up in the morn.
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  3. #18
    smyers33 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    All I have inbetween the top triple and the neck of the frame is the bearing. No other metal peices like I had before with the ball bearings. I couldn't figure out how that stuff would fit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Resized_IMAG0016.jpg  
    1983 250r
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  4. #19
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    traxxasx is offline Alligator sized brain can't spell you correctly. Arm chair racerRoostin Away
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    Quote Originally Posted by smyers33
    All I have inbetween the top triple and the neck of the frame is the bearing. No other metal peices like I had before with the ball bearings. I couldn't figure out how that stuff would fit.

    Its late and i dont know but is the top race still on? Arent the new bearing supossed to be in the neck?
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  5. #20
    smyers33 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Is the race the metal case that came with the bearing? If it is then yes it is still over the bearing. There is no way the bearing can fit up into the neck going from the top or bottom. Thanks for the help... Still confused though .
    1983 250r
    1986 200x
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  6. #21
    bp739's Avatar
    bp739 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    There still has to be the outer part of the old bearing in the neck. The new bearing should be farther down inside the neck. With the new bearing properly installed there should be about 1/4 gap between the top of ther bearing and the top of the neck........the new bearing should be a 1/4 inch below the top of the neck when your done.

    Slide a socket extension up through the bottom of the neck along the outer wall ..if it stops or hits something then theres part of the old bearing still in there..it should be smooth.

    I just used a socket and an extension to pound the old one out from the bottom.

    I wish I would have taken pics of mine while I still had it apart..
    Last edited by bp739; 10-01-2006 at 09:55 AM.
    85' YAMAHA TRI-Z

    85'
    HONDA ATC 250R
    85' HONDA ATC 350X
    86' HONDA ATC 200X

    05' KAWASAKI KFX 700

  7. #22
    smyers33 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Ill go check it out. thanks
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  8. #23
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    I am having the same problem. The top bearing seems like it needs to go down further.
    I took both races back out and there is a spacer or something in the neck that allows the bottom bearing race to go up in the neck to far and doesn't allow the top to go down far enough. I took a punch and tried to move it down. It didn't work. Its like a sleeve or spacer. Had to be pressed in. I tried everything. I was pretty irritated. I tried everything, I think I am just going to try and salvage the old ones. There goes 40 bucks
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  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wideopen872 View Post
    I am having the same problem. The top bearing seems like it needs to go down further.
    I took both races back out and there is a spacer or something in the neck that allows the bottom bearing race to go up in the neck to far and doesn't allow the top to go down far enough. I took a punch and tried to move it down. It didn't work. Its like a sleeve or spacer. Had to be pressed in. I tried everything. I was pretty irritated. I tried everything, I think I am just going to try and salvage the old ones. There goes 40 bucks
    83 200x full restore in works
    Did you drive out the old races from the neck? Those have to be removed in order for the new races to be driven into the neck. All old parts of the loose ball setup have to be removed. There are 4 races all together in the oem setup. Two are pressed into the neck, one is pressed onto the stem and the other rides underneath the top threaded cap. All four of those have to go.
    Last edited by bkm; 04-05-2011 at 01:07 AM.

  10. #25
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    This is what AllBalls sent me, although you may have to download it to your computer and blow it up to read it clearly. Your top race should go in the neck (ed in with a piece of wood) tapered side UP. Run the fork stem up through the neck, and just slide the top bearing down. The bottom is the headache, the top will just go on. I've installed three sets of tapered steering bearings, and all three races did not seat fully in the top.

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  11. #26
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    I had 4 pieces all together when I was done driving out the old ones. A "top" and "bottom race" for the bottom of the neck and the top as well.
    With the new bearings, the top race doesn't sit down in the neck flush. It seems like it should. Hopefully I can up load some pictures this weekend. It just don't look right, and if it was down farther it would allow more threads to show on the stem. I bet its not even getting a full nut worth. You turn the nut once or twice and its puttin to much preload on the bearings, you can hardly turn.

  12. #27
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    My top race sat up a little above the neck also. This is normal I believe because mine went together no problem. If I had to guess your bottom bearing might not be flat on the bottom triple. I had to slide a piece of pvc pipe over the stem to act as a bearing driver for the bottom bearing.

  13. #28
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    I will check that this weekend. I hope thats all it is. Thanks for the help.

  14. #29
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    It sure looks like theres a tapered bearing still in that top neck (looks painted like the frame)......
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  15. #30
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    IDK what machine your doing this to? But the 350X does not want the washer, you run out of threads on the upper bearing adj. nut.

    You have the option of pressing out the hole stem and starting over.

    With a bare stem, it goes, sealing washer, lower bearing, upper bearing and adj.nut.

    The instructions are not model specific and screw allot of guys out of a proper install (and money).

    My trick is to remove all the stock stuff (balls and all) and stack it up, then measure the height. If it's close to the new stuff, don't use the washer. If the new bearings stacked up are quite a bit shorter, use the washer.

    When pressing on the lower bearing you have to center the seal or that will get damaged as it doesn't fit well either. The washer (if needed) goes on first, then seal, then the lower bearing.

    I've done them all that way.........
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