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Thread: 250R, getting spark?

  1. #16
    82 250r's Avatar
    82 250r is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I would first make SURE you're not getting spark. It's hard for me to hold the plug on a bare spot on the jug with one hand, and kick it over at the same time. Have someone hold the plug on a good ground while you kick it hard.

    If you're not getting spark, then it is SO MUCH EASIER to have some known good parts to swap.
    These are the things you need to maintain for a good spark on a two stroke:

    Coil (make sure the contacts are rust and corrosion free)
    Stator assembly (Check the connectors for mud, rust, corrosion etc. and clean the stator mounting area)
    Spark plug wire and boot (unscrew the boot and make sure it's not corroded.)
    Switch. (The switch can corrode and lose contact. frustrating)
    Spark plug (Do your testing with a new plug)
    CDI ( usually when they die, they die. Get one or two from ebay...you may need it if you plan to keep the trike for any amount of time)

    In my experience, testing these components via multimeter etc. does not work. Having known good parts on hand that can be swapped is the easiest and least frustrating.
    I have a spare coil and CDI you can use for testing purposes but need them back.

  2. #17
    MPDano's Avatar
    MPDano is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82 250r View Post
    I would first make SURE you're not getting spark. It's hard for me to hold the plug on a bare spot on the jug with one hand, and kick it over at the same time. Have someone hold the plug on a good ground while you kick it hard.

    If you're not getting spark, then it is SO MUCH EASIER to have some known good parts to swap.
    These are the things you need to maintain for a good spark on a two stroke:

    Coil (make sure the contacts are rust and corrosion free)
    Stator assembly (Check the connectors for mud, rust, corrosion etc. and clean the stator mounting area)
    Spark plug wire and boot (unscrew the boot and make sure it's not corroded.)
    Switch. (The switch can corrode and lose contact. frustrating)
    Spark plug (Do your testing with a new plug)
    CDI ( usually when they die, they die. Get one or two from ebay...you may need it if you plan to keep the trike for any amount of time)

    In my experience, testing these components via multimeter etc. does not work. Having known good parts on hand that can be swapped is the easiest and least frustrating.
    I have a spare coil and CDI you can use for testing purposes but need them back.
    Thanks for the lengthy reply.

    Here is what is brand new:

    Source Coil
    Spark Plug
    Spark Plug Coil with attached wire and boot

    The switch when off gives no voltage, with it on gives 6 volts. I am assuming this is functionable but good tip on cleaning it.

    CDI is stock but I didn't know this controls spark, so I may buy a spare to try.

    Thanks for the offer.

    Can you see if your getting the same voltage on the wire connected to your coil and ground off frame/engine? If so, let me know what voltage your getting. That would be a great start.

  3. #18
    MPDano's Avatar
    MPDano is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Pulled the CDI off and took it inside to look at it and the numbers. Decided to back back outside and look at the connector, it looked really corroded. Shot some De-Oxit on the plug terminals and will see if this helps overnight. Will try it again tomorrow after work.

  4. #19
    MPDano's Avatar
    MPDano is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I got spark. Still no start. Got only 60psi on compression check. I think this is my issue. Gonna start a new thread on compression.

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