Just got an 85' Big Red that was well taken care of. I was wondering if I could change to Amzoil sythetic or if I should stick to conventional motor oil. Any ideas?
Thanks, Mike
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Arm chair racerNew to the board
Just got an 85' Big Red that was well taken care of. I was wondering if I could change to Amzoil sythetic or if I should stick to conventional motor oil. Any ideas?
Thanks, Mike
86 Honda atc 250sx (sold it)
84 Suzuki alt 125 (gonna sell it soon)
85 Kawasaki 180? (gave it away)
Looking for Heald Super Tryke. (If you know what that is)
05 Polaris Ranger 4x4
97 Polaris Sportsman 400L
85 Big Red
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Beware, sometimes the synthetics can mess with the older clutch fibers making them so slippery that your clutch will slip to the point that the trike won't move. Just be careful and be forewarned.
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I would stick with conventional 10/40.
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Power User
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If you keep your oil filter and filter screen clean and your oil changed regularly, you shouldn't have much problem.
Nicholson 500x (Project)
Nicholson 185s
Nicholson 110 (That takes an atc70 tank)
Ascott 500 head/350x (Project)
Homebuilt Racer Chromoly Suspension 110 (Ragin Runt)
PK Racing Suspension 70
A+ Inc Suspension 70
AWS Aluminum 90 frame
Hi Performance ATC Suspension frame rd350
Hi Performance ATC Suspension frame 90
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I don't know anything about synthetic oils, but have used regular10/40 oil for the 24 years I have had my BR and never had any problems with it. I would stick to conventional oil.
85 Big Red
83 Big Red
84 125m
85 TRX 125
73 ATC 70
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Conventional oil for sure. On an older machine the synthetics won't keep the seals supple and you will end up with oil leaks.
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I'm not sure about the synthetic vs. conventional oil either, I have a friend who after he rebuilds an engine, with new seals and everything, he will only run synthetic in it from the start.
I had another question to add and didn't want to start a new thread since I saw this one, but don't want to hijack this thread either, so feel free to ignore if it is...
But what is the difference between the ATV/Motorcycle oil and Automotive oil. The API is SE or SF for the trike, but for my truck/car it's different. Whats the dif, and will it cause problems to run the same oil in my trike that I run in my truck/car?
1982 185s with rear suspension (Frankenstein)
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Arm chair racerFirst time rider
If you don't know anything about oils, just say so.
The only difference between synthetic oil and mineral oil is one is made in a factory and one is refined from crude oil. A full synthetic is better lubrication( due to fewer impurities and more uniform molecules), and lasts longer because it resists oxidation better (same reasons).
It's not the oil that screws up the clutches it's the additives. Do not run any oil that isn't designed for wet clutches, mineral or synthetic. Most new automotive oils will screw up your clutches. If it doesn't have the SAE motorcycle designation, then don't use it.
I run Yamalube 15-50 in mine, it's a full synthetic, designed for motorcycle wet clutches. It was recommended to me by guys who build and race everything from motocross to drag bikes.
Keeping a good quality motorcycle oil in your trike is all that's necessary. You have to decide which one you want to use, but make sure you use one that is designed for wet clutches.
Last edited by topless; 02-28-2009 at 11:09 AM.
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I run chainsaw bar oil in mine. The sticky additive they put in it so it sticks to your chain really helps my clutches hook-up. Barks the tires on pavement every time I shift all the through 5th gear.
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Just kidding on the bar oil.
Avatar: 1986 250SX with a 350x front end. Almost done.
Feedback thread: http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...-for-Coaltrain
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Topless, thanks, I'm pretty ignorant to this stuff. Was never around this at all growing up and just found out I really enjoy working on my own stuff. So I'm slowly learning as I go, I probably have and will ask a lot of stupid questions, but once I learn something I've got it.
Mikeee, sorry for jumping into your thread like that.
1982 185s with rear suspension (Frankenstein)
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Arm chair racerNew to the board
Thanks for all the info, I think I will stck to conventional motorcyle oil. This machine is in to good of shape to chance it. Besides its been run on conventional for 23 yrs anyway. Thanks for the info.
86 Honda atc 250sx (sold it)
84 Suzuki alt 125 (gonna sell it soon)
85 Kawasaki 180? (gave it away)
Looking for Heald Super Tryke. (If you know what that is)
05 Polaris Ranger 4x4
97 Polaris Sportsman 400L
85 Big Red
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Exactly...........Originally Posted by mikeee
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Appalachian American Engineering
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I have NOT heard good stuff when people change from regular to synthetics....
BUT, what does bother me is the post not too long ago about some additive that is being cut down or completely removed from out conventional oil.
I have been beating the snot out of my 350X for 3 years on 12$ per 5 quarts Valvoline and I still have no smoking or power loss. But, I do change it often and do the filter every other oil change. My 250SX, it's been 9 years of beating it now.....
Warming an engine up before beating on it is also very very important!!!! and something ALLOT of people overlook.
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[QUOTE=Dirtcrasher;715117]
BUT, what does bother me is the post not too long ago about some additive that is being cut down or completely removed from out conventional oil./QUOTE]
Zinc (zddp). I've been buying Valvoline 4-Stroke Motor Oil since I read it.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=76
Here's the post I think you are referring to.
http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/s...ad.php?t=92283
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