might want to pop your mag cover off and take a look at the mag and stator, get a multimeter andstart checking, heck it could be a bad kill switch.
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
might want to pop your mag cover off and take a look at the mag and stator, get a multimeter andstart checking, heck it could be a bad kill switch.
1985 Tri-Z-
Originally Posted by mywifeknowseverything
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
the kill switch hasnt worked since i got the bike lol...and as far as it being the coil it may be but it doesnt even run good at idal
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
ok i went out to find my multi meter doesnt work anymore...so for the hell of it i pulled the plug out and kicked it over with it dark out side and i was getting a bright blue spark..but i guess it could still be a ignition problem?
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
ok got my multimeter working tonight...i checked the ignition coil resistence and it was right in the middle of specs. i then checked the stator and pickup coil both tested right in the middle of specs...next up was the cdi...i checked every connector in the plug and got no reading at all. so i was excited thinking that was the problem but then i read back and saw you have to have a special multimeter...so what do you guys think? take a shot in the dark and just buy a cdi?
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
hey guys still chasing this problem...out of the discription i have tried to give is there anything else i should be checking...i was told crank seals can cause it to run like this...i am trying to take this to busco beach in 2 weeks so i am in a time crunch...i have new reeds on the way and im hoping they will be in tomorrow...stator and coil tested good but is it possable they could still be bad? i got nothing out of my cdi when i tried to test it but apparently you have to have a certain tester...so does anyone have anymore ideas? i am going to try my hardest to get a video up of what its doing this weekend
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
reeds fixed the problem
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
Just Too Addicted
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
Nice, glad to hear you got it fixed and thanks for letting us know!
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
glad to here you got it running
1984 Honda 200M
1984 Honda 200M
1996 Yamaha 250 Timberwolf 4x4
1990+ Xingfu Hunter
1986 Suzuki SP200
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
i still think it was a combination or a fuel filled crack case fouled plug and bad reeds but it is running pretty good now
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
ok i jumped the gun on saying i had it fixed...ok after you take in all the info on this tread i have giving. this is wear i am now...i put new reeds in and a new plug...and the bike ran so well like a bat out of hell for about an hour then it started running bad and fouled the plug..but as soon as it put a new plug in...it ran pefect again for about an hour of riding.,...then i changed from a 145 main jet to a 135 and no change...it seems to want to smoke alot when its cold.. then when it warms up it clears up while riding but smoke alot at idal all the time any ideas
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
ok i worked up the nerve to try again at it...i put an extra coil i had on with no change both coils tested about the same...i tested to exicter coil it was at 150...i then tested the stator it tested at 147...so how confident are you guys that the stators have to test about 200 to be good before i spend $150 on one? i also slightly opened the gap on the plug and it ran worse...i closed it back and it ran the same...i have been thrue about 7 plugs in the last 3 days of trying to diagnois this bike...it just makes no sence..it runs like a bat out of hell for about an hours worth or riding every time i put in a new plug...then fouls it out...it is smoking alot at idal and seems to foul the plugs faster the more i let it idal...i am about to drag this damn bike down the road behind my truck
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
Just Too Addicted
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
I think it's an air leak.... I'd check your reeds, make sure they're seating properly still! Your problem sounds like mine, bad bore hone job???
'85 ATC 250R
FMF Fatty & Power Core
Boyesen Rad Valve
38 PWK A/S
K&N w/PF (next purchase)
LSR +4 Axcaliber axle
LSR Duel row bearing carrier
DuraBlue Anti-fade (to be installed)
13/36 sprockets
'85 ATC 250R
Parts trike (maybe future build?)
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
havent had a bore or hone job done...and an air leak i think would cause a lean condition not rich
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
Just Too Addicted
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
its worth a shot to make a leak down tester and check to make sure you dont have a seal out...you and i are chasing similar problems, only mine wont run for the hour or so like yours does. i made a leak down tester for about 15 bucks.
2006 Yamaha Raptor 700
2004 Kawasaki KFX700 V Force
1985 Suzuki LT230GE(wifes toy)
1985 Honda ATC 70
1979 Honda ATC 70 (daughters toy)
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
I agree with Steve, you need to do a leak down test and a compression test if you haven't already. I just built a leak down tested and I'm still chasing leaks! The first on was the spark plug of all things, I had to loosen and tighten several times and actually had to tighten up more then I liked to get it to seal. My cases were also leaking... you'll get bubbles from the crank case vent on it. I got lucky and was able to tighten the two case bolts behind the flywheel/stator and it stopped. I still have a slow leak and have a fly wheel puller and new seals on order. Also, without going back and reading 3 pages, is your air/fuel screw doing anything when you adjust it? Try this if you haven't already: put a new plug in, set the air/fuel screw at 1.5 turns out, warm it up, get the idle set, slowly turn the air/fuel clockwise... the rpms should drop and the engine may die. Back it out and crank it back up, now start slowly turning the air/fuel counter clockwise until you get the highest RPM's then turn it back 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise. This should be real close for the air/fuel circuit and shouldn't be fouling plugs. IF... the carb WILL NOT adjust like I described, you have an air leak! I really don't think you have an ignition problem... Good luck!
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