just about done with my build. old Reed valve is kinda crappy. what do y'all seem to like or look for in Yer Reed valves. Ive been looking at the pyramid Reed valve from Duncan racing. any thoughts????
just about done with my build. old Reed valve is kinda crappy. what do y'all seem to like or look for in Yer Reed valves. Ive been looking at the pyramid Reed valve from Duncan racing. any thoughts????
I Run Vforce3 and ESR. Both preform very well with no bugs whatsoever. I have a used VF3 reed cage with reeds in good shape I'd sell to ya for a decent deal. (it came outta a 99 CR250r) PM me for details.
Shorty![]()
"Your 4 wheeler must be fast because you were haulin' ass....UNTIL I passed you on 3 wheels"
RIDE RED......OR RIDE HOME
TRIKES ARE NOT DANGEROUS......IDIOTS ARE!
RIP
NOS_350X is the most bad-ass person in the world
If you can find one mossbarger reeds are really Good they are an 8-pedal reed block and flow like crazy.
mossbarger is producing again.
"The best way to tell if it's a Honda is to open it up."
I run VForce 2's but I've heard great things about the pyramid cage.
TF 07,08,09,10,11,12,13,14!
Raffa's IceFest 08, 09, 10,11,13!
SAY IT!!!!!BUD LIGHTS AND RED LIGHTS!!!!!!
I ran the 1Dir Racing reeds and cage in my stock engine. Had to go up 3 main jet sizes just from those reeds. Only trouble I had was that the reed petal life was a bit short. They would flake and deteriorate on the ends rather quickly. Never did get that figured out.
Currently running an ESR reedblock on my 350. Very little ride time to report on at this time, so I can't really comment on their performance good or bad. I will mention however that they are VERY similar to V-Force's design...
Trikes:
'85 ATC 350R
'85 ATC 250R
'86 ATC 350X
'85 ATC 350X
'84 ATC 200ES Big Red
'84 ATC 125M
'85 ATC 110
'85 ATC 70/110
If you have bought from me or sold to me, please leave me feedback here>>> http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...+RIDE-RED+250r
Just to add, that any Carbon Fiber reed set-up requires a constant check-up. I have seen to many of them delaminate and chip, and also just come straight loose from the retainers. When that happens, your crank bearings are gonna hate it. All reeds really should be checked and or replaced at least once per season and I really recomend inspecting any carbon fiber ones often.I dont really have any feedback on your reed set-up. I have ridden ESR pipe on Rad valves, Boyesons and V force cages, and honestly, I think that any aftermarket reed valve is about the same in performance.
I know they all have different flow rates on a bench, but many times that does not always translate to real world seat of the pants losses or gains. It is all in preference if you ask me, unless you have a full out drag engine that needs maximum breathing..Then Flow rates could be considered..That is just my opinion though.
Here is where my long useless list of stuff nobody cares about should go...
Proudly NOT a member of
"Team on the Teat"
Mosh have you ever Ran the Duncan pyramids in the Z?
and do you run a torque spacer? i have one on my 39mm keihin and it works well but seems to take away form top end. any opinions fellas?
just the torque spacer with standard reed cage is what i'm running with a 39mm carb.
next project is getting 38mm airstryker but not sure weather or not for reed spacer. better for low end grunting around but not so good with the top end is what i have noticed..
Last edited by tri-Z ripper; 02-11-2012 at 01:27 PM.
duncans site says they recommend not using a torque spacer with the pyramid reed valve
"The best way to tell if it's a Honda is to open it up."
I have been wondering about torque spacers and what they offer performance wise. Assuming that it gives you more bottom end from its name but have wanted to run this on my trikes but just dont know enough about them.
Just sit back and chillaxx
No I have not. Just Boyesons and VF3's.. Tri-Z's IMO, have all the bottom end in the world, and all a reed spacer does is "theoretically add to crank case volume". That combined with that factory boost bottle, small intake at the carb and the jug casting, it is just too much focus on bottem end. The Z has never been a real top end screamer, and honestly to build one like that and make it last without a balancer is a tall order. That is what everyone tried to acheive by running the YZ PV engine swaps. Whole different jug/intake size and lighter flywheel made for a different RPM range of power.
IMO I would ditch the spacer and lose the factory intake (boot at jug) and boost bottle. I do know when I put the Sprock intake on my Z it made a world of difference especially in the midrange and some top end still carrying decent bottom end. Obviously a larger carb will be needed, but I dont know if you really need to go with a PWK 38 or larger carb on a stock bore. I am not so sure they run much stronger with that large of a carb from what I have seen on stock bore engines. And they definately wont give you that much advantage or gains with that tiny stock rubber intake boot. You could always start by removing one thing at a time to, and see what it does. (Boost Bottle) then Spacer, or what have you.
Last edited by Mosh; 02-12-2012 at 11:04 AM.
Here is where my long useless list of stuff nobody cares about should go...
Proudly NOT a member of
"Team on the Teat"
I know this thread is old, but I'm interested in upgrading my stock reed system on my 85 Tri Z. Does anyone know where I can order the V force 3 reed valve's and cage?
I have been reading the wrench report and would like to start with the reed upgrade, also going to remove the air box and use the air filter recommended in the stage 2 part of the wrench report. I'd like to have my tri z ported in the future, anyone have any recommendations as to where I can have this done?
I'd like to hear some feedback from some of you who have ran the V force reeds compared to the Boysen power reeds.
Thanks!
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...age-On-A-Tri-z
If you want to go in on a set of the reeds i know where to get some at a reasonable price. Let me know.