Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16

Thread: 350x head scratcher

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Calif
    --
    4

    350x head scratcher

    So i just bought a 350x and it starts and rides like a champ. I manually stop it and it will not resart without being pulled. I thought no problem it must be the coil and replaced it. Same problem, then i replaced the cdi same problem i can't for the life of me figure this thing out. They say the 350x is mans game, i should have stuck with the boys on the 250r. So bummed, any suggestions.

  2. #2
    fcf35's Avatar
    fcf35 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    arkansas
    --
    228
    Check your valves..003

  3. #3
    fcf35's Avatar
    fcf35 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    arkansas
    --
    228
    If your coil and cdi are good your only left with valves or stator.ive yet to buy one with a bad stator.i recently bought one that will start and run but has issues.guys on here helped me to figure out it was my timing.worn timing chain.doesn't take long to pop the top on these so it may not be a bad idea to check timing also.

  4. #4
    Howdy's Avatar
    Howdy is offline Putting Priorities in Order, Busier than ever. Catch me if you can
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Celina, Ohio
    --
    10,079
    Check your spark plug as well. It's possible it is bad or going bad.
    Howdy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Calif
    --
    4

    Thx, i'll look at that.

    Quote Originally Posted by fcf35 View Post
    If your coil and cdi are good your only left with valves or stator.ive yet to buy one with a bad stator.i recently bought one that will start and run but has issues.guys on here helped me to figure out it was my timing.worn timing chain.doesn't take long to pop the top on these so it may not be a bad idea to check timing also.
    Now the only question i have is how will i know the valve is bad when i open it?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Oshawa, On, Canada
    --
    2,123
    When I first bought my X, when hot i always had a hell of a time starting it... You get used to starting it hot pretty quickly. They are easy to flood out. If it won't start, try this.

    Killswitch OFF, throttle WIDE OPEN, kick it over quickly 20 times. This will unflood ( lol grammar )the engine.
    turn killswitch on, kick quickly a few times. Should fire right up. I think a few people telling you to tear it apart and inspect are jumping the gun.

    Before flooding it out kicking 100 times, kick it slowly a few turns over untill you hit the compression stroke ( you will feel more resistance ) then give it one good kick. Will fire right up everytime if your carb is in good shape.

    Goodluck.
    1985 Honda 250r x2
    1986 Honda 250r
    1986 Honda 250sx
    1985 Honda 250sx x2
    1985 Honda 350x x2
    1986 Honda 350x
    1984 Honda 125m x4
    1983 Honda atc 70 w/ Lifan 125
    1984 Honda atc 70
    Yamaha tri zinger
    Yamaha 4 zinger
    Brap braaaap

    http://www.youtube.com/user/3wheelsoffroad

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Calif
    --
    4

    Wide open throttle

    Quote Originally Posted by Jason125m View Post
    When I first bought my X, when hot i always had a hell of a time starting it... You get used to starting it hot pretty quickly. They are easy to flood out. If it won't start, try this.

    Killswitch OFF, throttle WIDE OPEN, kick it over quickly 20 times. This will unflood ( lol grammar )the engine.
    turn killswitch on, kick quickly a few times. Should fire right up. I think a few people telling you to tear it apart and inspect are jumping the gun.

    Before flooding it out kicking 100 times, kick it slowly a few turns over untill you hit the compression stroke ( you will feel more resistance ) then give it one good kick. Will fire right up everytime if your carb is in good shape.

    Goodluck.
    Wow, you taught me something new. Holding the throttle WIDE OPEN doesn't cause it to flood?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
    --
    3,415
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason125m View Post
    When I first bought my X, when hot i always had a hell of a time starting it... You get used to starting it hot pretty quickly. They are easy to flood out. If it won't start, try this.

    Killswitch OFF, throttle WIDE OPEN, kick it over quickly 20 times. This will unflood ( lol grammar )the engine.
    turn killswitch on, kick quickly a few times. Should fire right up. I think a few people telling you to tear it apart and inspect are jumping the gun.

    Before flooding it out kicking 100 times, kick it slowly a few turns over untill you hit the compression stroke ( you will feel more resistance ) then give it one good kick. Will fire right up everytime if your carb is in good shape.

    Goodluck.
    Ah, to be young enough to kick your 350X over 20Xs and not waste your leg for the entire day!!

    If I have to do this trick..the is staying at home until it's fixed!!

    But yeah I agree with the open throttle to clear a flood..maybe just crack the throttle and kick it over might be enough. It works for me on the occasion this happens..

    But definitely don't ignore the new plug idea..a fresh one fixes these issues much of the time.
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

  9. #9
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    minnesota
    --
    5,911
    Hello


    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpopper66 View Post
    Now the only question i have is how will i know the valve is bad when i open it?
    He is talking about the valve adjustment, set it per the manual below. Put your piston at top dead center remove site plug from stator cover and line up the "T" mark in the window and set valves per manual spec. Slightly loose is better than slightly tight. Recheck AFTER you tighten the nut. I think this as well as all the other suggestions should be done but this one is a PITA.


    I might try the following.

    Lay plug on head when cold and look at spark, is it weak pale yellow or strong lite blue?

    Lay plug on head during a NO START condition, does the spark look the same or noticeably weaker?

    Obviously if it’s weaker when it’s hot you have a heat related electrical problem. Ohm the stator per manual hot and cold. I think voltage output is commonly over 50 v from source coil with pull start if you have one. Kbonly might be able to confirm this if he shows up.


    Check plug color, is it

    1. almost white?
    2. lite tan?
    3. dark tan?
    4. dry black?
    5. damp goey black?


    How much choke does it take to start 0, 1/3, 3/4 or full?

    How much throttle 0, 1/3, 2/3?

    What is the air temp where you are starting it when it is ice cold?

    Does it idle better or worse when hot?

    Is your carb original or Chinese etc.


    If it starts EASILY with 1/3 choke or less and it the air temp is 50 degrees or less your pilot jet is too large by at least 1 size providing you fuel mix screw is set properly and or your float level is too high. Either of these can contribute to a rich condition and subsequently possible difficulty starting when the engine and/or outside temperature warms up.

    If your choke is NOT the venture butterfly type then make sure it is not leaking fuel when in off position if possible.


    FLOAT LEVEL CHECK – Install an 6” long clear tube on float bowl drain, hold open end next to carb and above top of carb by 1”, open bowl drain screw,. Gas level should be approximately 1/8” below bottom of carb body where it meets the float bowl. If it is at or above the bottom of carb body it is definitely too high and if floats are plastic you will need to go to the regular hardware or industrial hardware supply store and get a2 fiber washers to go under your needle seat. Install just 1, this should lower float level enough, then recheck. Once properly set then retest hot starting condition and if it persists and it still starts easily when cold with little or no choke then reduce pilot jet by 1 size at a time until at least 2/3 choke is required when the air temp is 50 degrees or less.


    SPARK PLUG – If it is typically below 50 degrees where you ride then get heat range hotter than stock. This will improve both an over rich cold and hot starting condition.


    Basically I think if your spark is the same hot and cold and your spark plug is good [not carboned up or Chinese made] and it starts with like 1/3 choke or less at 50 degrees or less and your spark plug is dark tan to black and your air screw is between 1 ½-2 turns out from full in and your float level is correct then reducing the pilot jet size by 2 and possibly dropping the needle 1 by raising the clip that this will improve hot starting noticeably.


    Here’s a free quick download original service manual link courtesy of KBONLY.

    http://www.kb0nly.info/ATC/index.php?dir=ATC350X%2F

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Blossvale NY
    --
    4,563
    I would add that when clearing a flooded engine, it's a good idea to turn the fuel valve off... I know it won't stop the fuel already in the carb bowl from being pulled in to a degree, but in case it doesn't clear out fairly quickly you won't be loading it up with even more.

    Something I have always done when clearing a flooded engine.... It does seem to help
    Trikes:
    '85 ATC 350R
    '85 ATC 250R
    '86 ATC 350X
    '85 ATC 350X
    '84 ATC 200ES Big Red
    '84 ATC 125M
    '85 ATC 110
    '85 ATC 70/110

    If you have bought from me or sold to me, please leave me feedback here>>> http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...+RIDE-RED+250r

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Oshawa, On, Canada
    --
    2,123
    Quote Originally Posted by dougspcs View Post
    Ah, to be young enough to kick your 350X over 20Xs and not waste your leg for the entire day!!
    But yeah I agree with the open throttle to clear a flood..maybe just crack the throttle and kick it over might be enough.
    That could work, but i am reading directly from the decal on my 350x tank. Works like a charm! I may be over exaggerating the amount of kicks, but it gets the job done regardless.

    With a proper decompression cable setting you can even do it with your hand.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpopper66 View Post
    Wow, you taught me something new. Holding the throttle WIDE OPEN doesn't cause it to flood?
    No it does not, the 350x's do not have an accelerator pump.
    1985 Honda 250r x2
    1986 Honda 250r
    1986 Honda 250sx
    1985 Honda 250sx x2
    1985 Honda 350x x2
    1986 Honda 350x
    1984 Honda 125m x4
    1983 Honda atc 70 w/ Lifan 125
    1984 Honda atc 70
    Yamaha tri zinger
    Yamaha 4 zinger
    Brap braaaap

    http://www.youtube.com/user/3wheelsoffroad

  12. #12
    Cave Rider's Avatar
    Cave Rider is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Howes Cave NY
    --
    320
    Im going with valve clearance also...seen many tight intakes cause this problem...motor gets hot and valves hang open...30yr old valves,pretty good chance theyre sinking into the head,even if replaced,an old seat not cut correctly or at all can cause rapid loss of clearance.good luck !!!

  13. #13
    fcf35's Avatar
    fcf35 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    arkansas
    --
    228
    Are you saying you can move the kickstart by hand all the way down?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    California
    --
    2
    Yes start simple!!!! I hear people all the time want to tear into an engine. Start with a plug and start problem solving from a simple stand point. I once bought a 200x that didn’t run and the guy said he stripped the threads where the spark plug went in. Instead of tearing it down and re-tapping the threads right away I double checked if the guy had the right plug (after i bought it for $250) and BOOM wrong plug. I put in a new plug and it fired right up. START SIMPLE.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,133
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason125m View Post
    That could work, but i am reading directly from the decal on my 350x tank. Works like a charm! I may be over exaggerating the amount of kicks, but it gets the job done regardless.

    With a proper decompression cable setting you can even do it with your hand.



    No it does not, the 350x's do not have an accelerator pump.
    I can stand on my kick starter and it sinks slowly, had it kick back a few times, I would never attempt to start one with my arm, it would end up broken! It has the decompression cable, never messed around adjusting it though lol.

    Even if the 350x had an accelerator pump... holding it wide open would still clear flood, it would just pump gas in when you first pushed the throttle wide open, then after that it won't pump any more. Same thing works on old cars/trucks with carbs (i have an 85 s-15 that floods easy).

    Going off the deep end here, for fuel injected cars and I would think atvs as well, holding the throttle wide open (must be 100% open!) at crank time, it will STOP injecting fuel and go into clear flood mode. Trick is to know when to take your foot off the gas when it starts .


    Just my 0.02... when I clear flood an atv, I never turn the engine switch off, if it gets close enough to start, I want it to run lol.

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //