just changed my oil for the first time on rebuilt motr and it had ALOT of metal shavings in it is that BAD? i changed the oil and it ran fine, all 5 gears sounds and runs fine. wer did those shavings come from thought ?
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just changed my oil for the first time on rebuilt motr and it had ALOT of metal shavings in it is that BAD? i changed the oil and it ran fine, all 5 gears sounds and runs fine. wer did those shavings come from thought ?
Power User
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Are they metal or aluminum? Did you test with a magnet?
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aluminum jus checkd with magnetOriginally Posted by Jason125m
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I wouldn't worry about it on the first few oil changes. If its a rebuilt motor you have fresh piston rings moving against a freshly honed cylinder. The honing provides a surface for the rings to wear against and eventually seal properly. This process will cause some metal shavings in oil until the cylinder looses the crosshatch from honing. I would not worry about fine metal particulates. If it does not get better or you find large chunks you can start to worry.
Make sure you do not have your timing chain too tight. It can put too much tension on the cam bearings and begin to eat the bearing race on the cylinder head.
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Power User
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Ditto on the above post. I know it sounds bad and I can't tell you where your's all came from, but small shavings and particals do occure. Some can even be from the new oil you put in (the metal drums it comes in are full of crud) Clutch baskets are a major source of junk and a lot of stuff gets left in the oil passages if they aren't properly chased after machine work has been done. There are also a number of open holes in the cases that the case bolts thread into. Often some threads get stripped off and pushed into the cases when you assemble the engine. If there is still a lot in the oil after the third change you might have a problem.
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Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
You have a problem, you should never ever have a LOT of metal shavings in any engine new or old.
i would yank the clutch cover and disassemble everything under it and see if something is obviously rubbing. Any metal will waste your new cylinder in no time as it splashes the metal contaminated oil splashes up on it.
Power User
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Agreed, a little yes,like black sand sifting for gold. But you said a LOT. Not right. Did you clean the strainer out when you rebuilt it? How far into the bottom were you?
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How about we get "A LOT" defined. A 1/4 teaspoon? More? Less?
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it was like a pinch of shavings
i got the bike off some kid that said it had the whole motr rebuilt top 2 bottem, but he let it sit for about 6 months and then i came and saved it. filled it with fresh oil and ran fine backyard crusing mostly execpt last week i hit the trails didnt really ride hard nevr even got to 5th, but i was getting ready to hit the trails againg and this came up, but it seems fine been crusing the back yard even hit the streets to stretch her out on all gears runs fine
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If it was just a pinch I stand by my earlier comment. I have magnetic bung plugs on all my trikes & bikes and they always have something on them. On my drag bikes I changed oil every weekend they were run and a 1/4" teaspoon of shavings on the magnets were the norm. We also would open the oil filters if time permited and there was always plenty of aluminium in them. The only thing were worried about was finding bronze from the thrust washers on the connecting rod pins. That meant you had between 0 and 10 passes left before you threw a rod. Not a fun thing to find, but better than venting a set of cases. If your oil has been changed go ride it and if it doesn't make any weird noises or shift funny change the oil after an hour or two. Unless there is more than a pinch I'd keep driving it. Others may disagree, so listen to whoever you want.
yaegerb
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Its normal to find metal shavings on a completely rebuilt motor. Do what El Camexican said...change the oil a few more times and if you keep seeing shavings somethings wrong, but I doubt you will.
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Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
I agree with the quote above from yaegerb. Any amount of metal in the oil will positively cause at least some wear/damage to internal parts like the piston and cylinder in a very short time as I previously mentioned, but the cam lobes, cam bearing surfaces and crank bearings are also other significant areas of concern. It won't hurt the gears or gear shafts as much as some other parts.
Aluminum is not as damaging as steel.
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Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
As far as the type of oil goes, i would stick with thr following:
4 stroke motorcycle oil. it is designed for wet clutch engines.
any oil with zddp levels of between 1100 ppp - 1600 ppm, some motul, motorex, lucas and all valvoline vr1 oils fall in this category as well as some others.
if it is around 40 degrees or below when you ride i might run 10w-30 or 5w-30.
synthetics are xlnt but look for the zddp levesl in them, only a few synthetics have zddp. All the mfg's I mentioned have both std and synthetic motorcycle oil with the appropriate levels of zddp.
lucas and valvoline are the least expensive.
I looked up the following cold weather wet clutch 4 stroke motorcycle oils for those that might be interested. I prefer ones with zddp [with zinc akyl dithiophosphate].
Motul
5w-30 synthetic has 1.4% zddp this is very good
5w-30 synthetic blend has 3% zddp that’s a ton
http://www.motul.com/us/en-us/products?f[engine_type]=26&f[range]=21&f[viscosity]=33
Motul 300V 5w-30 synthetic motorcycle oil with 3% ZDDP 2.1 qt bottle
$30.00
http://www.fcpimport.com/products/30...2-liter-103128
$34.00
http://www.amazon.com/Motul-300V-5W3.../dp/B005V2ADLI
$35.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181265162745?lpid=82
Lucas
5w-20 synthetic has zddp in unknown levels call for info
5w-30 synthetic has zddp in unknown levels call for info
https://www.lucasoil.com/products/di...id=16&loc=show
Lucas 5w-30 synthetic motorcycle oil with ZDDP 1 qt bottle
$7.25 1 qt bottle
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/320334863523?lpid=82
$8.99
http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-1004.../dp/B001DKQ4HO
lucas products msds list
http://www.lucasoil.ca/products/motorcycle-products.asp
motorex pro 4t
5w-30 ? synthetic zddp?
10w-30 synthetic zddp?
http://www.motorexusa.com/musa/offroad.asp
http://www.ktmpartsonline.com/accessories/motorex-oils
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I just typed “The answer to the question no one asked” into my Google search box and it took me to this post.
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Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
Hello Duck4twenty
The reason I posted the oil info was not because I was assuming you actually needed it, but instead, was just in case you were unaware of the things I mentioned. Very few non professional vehicle people I know of have ever even heard of ZDDP.
Unlike some others, I occasionally post info/suggestions that I think might be helpful to someone that are relevant to their problem but that they might not have thought of to ask about.
Also unlike some others that offer no information relevant to an op’s problem or question in their post such as one that has been posted by another person on your thread [which in my opinion is also unnecessary, unwarranted and abrasive/sarcastic etc.] I at least make some sort of attempt to be helpful and not go off topic and clutter up someones thread with posts that have 0 relevance to an op's problem or question.
If you prefer that my post above be deleted for any reason, you will need to ask a moderator to do it because I do not have an edit button.
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