ATCr125x

[onformula1]

What kind of welder do you have?

[Billy Golightly]

Looks like you're on the right track - don't forget the cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to welding...

[Jmoozy27]

What kind of welder do you have?

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-1...5a-output.html

It's set up for flux core right now.

[Jmoozy27]

Looks like you're on the right track - don't forget the cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to welding...

Thanks Billy, I'll keep that in mind.

[onformula1]

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-1...5a-output.html

It's set up for flux core right now.

Bro, throw that flux core wire as far as you can and never look back!

[Jmoozy27]

Bro, throw that flux core wire as far as you can and never look back!

Trust me, I plan to...

[onformula1]

Trust me, I plan to...

And for gas get argon/ CO2 mix it's well worth the couple of extra bucks.

[Jmoozy27]

And for gas get argon/ CO2 mix it's well worth the couple of extra bucks.

The difference that mig wire and gas makes is unspeakable...


Every weld gets better, I should've got one of these years ago...

[onformula1]

Something is not correct, but its hard to tell because you are wire brushing and grinding the welds so it is hard to tell.

Here are a few tips-

As Bill said previously, it must be clean- remove all paint and primer at least a 1/2" from the weld area I prefer wire wheeling or sanding instead of grinding because it doesn't remove metal. Clean the welding area with a oil free cleaner I use lacquer thinner and paper towels, so you know there is no old oil left in your clean towels. The area must be clean, clean, clean you now no longer have flux to clean the area.

Do you push or pull? Try the push method if you don't

Lay your elbow against the frame and clamp your hand around the frame parallel to the welding area now put hand with the MIG gun across your other arm and slide across to have a steady bead. should look like this- + Like you are creating a human sliding mill table.

The shielding gas my be to low, hard to tell with your weld cleaned up.

This is very important- do not use a extension cord, plug the MIG in the outlet directly, move if you have to, if you can't use the shortest, largest diameter cord you can find.

Make sure the ground clamp is within 12" of your welding area and is clamped to the frame with no paint on either side, sand or wire wheel it.

[Jmoozy27]

Something is not correct, but its hard to tell because you are wire brushing and grinding the welds so it is hard to tell.

Here are a few tips-

As Bill said previously, it must be clean- remove all paint and primer at least a 1/2" from the weld area I prefer wire wheeling or sanding instead of grinding because it doesn't remove metal. Clean the welding area with a oil free cleaner I use lacquer thinner and paper towels, so you know there is no old oil left in your clean towels. The area must be clean, clean, clean you now no longer have flux to clean the area.

Do you push or pull? Try the push method if you don't

Lay your elbow against the frame and clamp your hand around the frame parallel to the welding area now put hand with the MIG gun across your other arm and slide across to have a steady bead. should look like this- + Like you are creating a human sliding mill table.

The shielding gas my be to low, hard to tell with your weld cleaned up.

This is very important- do not use a extension cord, plug the MIG in the outlet directly, move if you have to, if you can't use the shortest, largest diameter cord you can find.

Make sure the ground clamp is within 12" of your welding area and is clamped to the frame with no paint on either side, sand or wire wheel it.

I'm learning the machine and making adjustments as I go, wire speed may have been a little slow on the last bead. Nonetheless, everything that I have ever done has been learned on the job. It's a work in progress.

I push...

Does anyone make a gusset kit for '86 200x, my machinist was recently robbed of some of his equipment which unfortunately included his plasma cutter.

[onformula1]

I have never seen a gusset kit for the 86-87 200x.

A 4" or 4 1/2" angle grinder with the guard removed works great or better on thin gusset plate with cut off wheels. (I have a plasma cutter)

Fast, smooth, little clean up needed.

http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of...tal-45430.html

Cheapest place to buy they work great (Dewalt's are a bit longer lasting at $5 bucks a pop) You can use the 20% off HF coupon too.

I can cut out a gusset kit faster than setting up my plasma cutter.

I use thick paper like a file folder as a template, market it on the frame with a thin, good pen then cut it out with scissors, lay it on you plate and mark it with a silver sharpie...Done deal!

Flapper wheels clean up the edges nicely, give them a try, you will not use grinding wheels on a trike anymore if you do.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in...-pc-61178.html

[onformula1]

BTW, I am not trying to pound on your welds, just trying to help like when you taught me everything I know about Gumbo!

[Jmoozy27]

BTW, I am not trying to pound on your welds, just trying to help like when you taught me everything I know about Gumbo!

It's cool, I thought I would've caught more flak from some of the other guys too. I've been watching you tube videos and reading all sorts of articles on mig welding. There is really no way to learn other than putting on the mask and letting sparks fly. Seems to be a slow weekend for the boards.

What's a good size steel plate to make the gussets?

[onformula1]

I use 1/8", but Mike said he bought a 350x kit from TPC Trikes and said it's 1/16"

I like it a bit thicker, but a do drill lighting holes on the bigger sized gussets, looks trick too.

I make mine on center of the tubes, Mike said the TPC Trikes kit weld to the outside of the tubes.

I like the way I do it and it is the way Factory Works MX bikes have used since the first one I saw when I was a little kid.

[Jmoozy27]

I use 1/8", but Mike said he bought a 350x kit from TPC Trikes and said it's 1/16"

I like it a bit thicker, but a do drill lighting holes on the bigger sized gussets, looks trick too.

I make mine on center of the tubes, Mike said the TPC Trikes kit weld to the outside of the tubes.

I like the way I do it and it is the way Factory Works MX bikes have used since the first one I saw when I was a little kid.

Both ways seem to make sense. Your way assures that you bind to the meat of the tubing, tpc way binds the frame to the meat of the gussets. What if I was to weld the gusset onto the middle of the tubing like a "T"?