Engine Seize - Time to Rebuild the Tri-Z

[brandonlowe2]

Well, I knew at some point the engine would blow and I would be rebuilding. When I bought it, I decided instead of putting a lot of money in the engine to make it "last longer" that I would have fun and run it until it dies... which happened this weekend. We are at the last couple miles of our 50 mile ride that morning.... I made it 49 1/2 miles.... If you want, you can watch it happen here... https://youtu.be/0_Sm9WzoN5w

Now that its done, its time to rebuild. I will start by saying I realize I will have way more money in this trike than it will ever be worth, but, I am doing because I want to do it not because I want to sell it. Having said that, here is my list (as it stands today anyway) of some of the things I want to do to it. If any has any suggestions on what to do, what not to do, or what to buy versus rebuild, please chime in.

1. Engine - It will be going to Brenden Yeager for a complete rebuild top to bottom and powder coating. He will be putting a Big Bore 350 top end on from Harry Klemm. Brenden mentioned a guy that makes custom pipes... depending on price I might get a totally custom pipe and silencer built for it.

2. Carburetor - I have plenty of time to change my mind, but as it stands right now I plan to use Keihin 38mm air striker

3. Power Reeds - V Force Reed kit with Boyesen reeds

4. Air Filter - Current Stock Airbox with current (and brand new) K&N Filter

5. Radiator - GPI Racing Aluminum Radiator and all new hoses

6. Billet Water Propeller

7. Thermostat - I want to see about finding a newer than 30 year old thermostat that will work.

8. Adding Gauges - I want to figure out a way to add a Temperature gauge or 2 so I can keep a close eye on the engine temp and coolant temp. I never want to seize up again due to overheating. Would also like to add a tachometer if possible. Speedometer would be cool too.... but, the temperature gauge is a must

9. Swingarm - I am looking for a +4 swingarm. Also looking for either aftermarket axles (preferred) or wheel spacers that would add 3~4 inches of backend width. I contacted RODZ Swinger's Customs to see if they make one.

10. Tires - I am going to lose the 22" scorpions and do to 20" holeshots. Not sure about the front yet.

11. Sprockets and Chain - Definitely going to replace, but, I have NO clue what I am going to do on those yet.

12. Brakes. I want to either rebuild the master cylinders or use something from a newer-than-30-year-old machine that would work.

13. Wiring - I will take this opportunity to completely rewire the trike. Also, hoping to add a "blinking" brake light.

14. Cosmetics - Jason Tetz is going to make a set of Carbon Fiber fenders. I am talking with a couple of custom seat makers to make a unique seat for me. I will be getting the Wicked Metal Designs foot pegs and having a custom fab shop make a set of nerf bars to my liking. I will be using the Mika Metals hybrid handlebars with the holeshot cell phone holding crossbar pad. Will be powdercoating the frame candy apple red. Wheels will be powdercoated gold as well as the swing-arm.

15. Will be replacing all bolts and bearings

16. Shock - Looking at having a "franken-shock" built for it by zmpolaristech

17. Front Forks - Should I replace them? Rebuild Them? I know very little about them.


Right now I am in the planning / dreaming stage. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. My goal is that when it is done it will be a "new" trike. Even things that are "good enough" for now, I would rather go ahead and rebuild or replace so that when it is done, I will know that from "said date" all was new and won't have to wonder when the next thing is going to break because it is still 30 years old.

[6spdls1z28]

Cant wait to see the build.

[YTZ drew]

Even though you sort of knew it would happen eventually, it still sucks when an engine finally takes a dump. I'm sure you'll get it up and running again. Good luck with your build!

[brandonlowe2]

Just found out about Durablue axles.... I think that is what I am going to try to get for the rear. They have a 2+2, which I assume is 2 on both sides for a total of 4 inches wider than stock

[NeverLift]

Take a look at these. I've used them, they are nice and cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-G-Force...VUPZOY&vxp=mtr

As long as your dreaming. New triple clamps with Inverted forks are fantastic. I have a set of clamps from Jason Halls and highly recommend them. I got 2 sets of forks, 1 full length for trails and MX then a set I lowered 6" for TT/Ice Racing racing. I can swap them out in under 1/2 hour.

Here is a picture of the different setup's.

[brandonlowe2]

What part is adjustable? The overall length?

[ironchop]

#17.......yeah if you're having the rear shock rebuilt, I would definitely have the forks rebuilt too.

It will be nice to see a good TriZ build in here so I'm anxious for updates.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[NeverLift]

What part is adjustable? The overall length?

The splines for the hubs are extra long and come with spacers. So you can put the spacers on either side of the hub for your desired length.

[brandonlowe2]

Ok.... if they are good and strong that would be significantly cheaper than the Durablue which are $550.00!!

[barnett468]

Why do you want a 4" longer swing arm as opposed to a 2" longer one . Longer is NOT always better and countless people put am arm on that is longer than they need simply because others did it . A 2" longer arm will make a BIG difference in how the bike turns, and the longer the arm, the less rear wheel traction it will have and the more it will try to "push" the front end in turns etc.

If the rear suspension is set up properly and a longer arm is used, it will cause the forks to be softer so you will likely need stiffer springs at the very least . Different weight oils will affect how firm or soft the forks are also, so you will need to experiment a little with the settings to get it dialed in.


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

[brandonlowe2]

barnett468.... i only assumed (and you know what assuming does!) that with the top end upgrade that I would want a little more rear end length to help keep the front on the ground going into 1st and 2nd. 2" in my mind just doesn't seem like a lot, but, if you say it is I need to look into that as an option. I love the way the bike handles right now and I don't want to change that drastically... I just want to accommodate for the added power

[Dirtcrasher]

The type of riding or racing you intend to do changes the responses to all of your questions...

[NeverLift]

I run a +3 from Metal Tech and it's great. I can still wheelie at will, yet it doesn't shoot skywards out of corers anymore. It seems to handle all riding types well, Trails, TT, MX and dunes. Works Quadcross banshee rear shock.

[christph]

I see you are thinking about getting GPI radiators--I am too. Even though I have a hi flow impeller, a Sprock cool head, and use Engine Ice on my Z, I still have an occasional problem with heat fade. I bought an aftermarket radiator for my 1st generation Tecate and it cools much better than stock, but several of the aluminum tabs broke after one ride. I got them re-welded and re-enforced so they are fine now, but I'm worried about the same problem with the Z radiators. I think all the oversized radiators on ebay are made by the same company in China. Does anyone have experience with these radiators they can report back?

[brandonlowe2]

I run a +3 from Metal Tech and it's great. I can still wheelie at will, yet it doesn't shoot skywards out of corers anymore. It seems to handle all riding types well, Trails, TT, MX and dunes. Works Quadcross banshee rear shock.

From the picture, it looks like you have quite a few mods on yours... can you post more pics and list what mods you have?