1984 Honda 200X Rescue

[Shep1970]

If your thinking about a china caliper for the front as well, do not fall for that one seller on ebay that has the 200x front calipers for 80-90 bucks- its a china knock off Gy6 scooter caliper that can be had for under $30 and cheaper if u spend the time looking. Theres two types, one has a rubber cap over the mounting bolt sleeve area same as oem other type is solid / just compare yours to pics online. They bolt right up to your stock bracket- and work fine, no issues.

mentioned this in the past/ i just hate folks screwing people over for china parts they themselves can get alot cheaper.
figure this may help other people looking at this thread aswell.

shep

[El Camexican]

I’m still trying to decide if that tire reminds me of a piece of cheese, or a camshaft lobe.

[knappyfeet]

If your thinking about a china caliper for the front as well, do not fall for that one seller on ebay that has the 200x front calipers for 80-90 bucks- its a china knock off Gy6 scooter caliper that can be had for under $30 and cheaper if u spend the time looking. Theres two types, one has a rubber cap over the mounting bolt sleeve area same as oem other type is solid / just compare yours to pics online. They bolt right up to your stock bracket- and work fine, no issues.

mentioned this in the past/ i just hate folks screwing people over for china parts they themselves can get alot cheaper.
figure this may help other people looking at this thread aswell.

shep

Haha!!.....it's a piece of cheese Mr. Suave!..haha!!


Thanks for the advice Shep....sound advice.

What I like to do is watch a whole bunch of parts. It seems like after a while I get a "seller's offer"...... Then I usually accept or sometimes I just declined and throw out my own offer which was lower than theirs......seems to work sometimes. That was the case with this caliper........ Because parts alone for the original was knocking on the door $50… plus all the fun/headaches of freeing up old calipers. Ironically the front one looks like I can almost push it back into its seat so I may not be looking for the front but it definitely needs a new master cylinder…. I think fluid will leak out of that hole. There's some all over the place.... EBay and Amazon that are under 20 bucks. Can't go wrong with that



I just ordered an air filter........same thing...seller's offer of $22 shipped including tax. My total amount invested so far is $692. Based on what I'm looking at so far even if the exhaust is scrap and the motor makes 1 PSI of compression I still may be able to make the $1500 budget.

[350for350]

Be sure to let us know how that caliper works. I've never tried a Chinese caliper. I did put a Chinese front master cylinder on my AutoX at first. It worked, but there was just no feel to it. There seemed to be the same resistance no matter how far or hard I pulled the lever. I hated that so I took it back off. I ended up buying a used master, caliper, and brake hose set up for a 2006(?) CR85 for less than $60 on Ebay. It came still assembled and it even worked. I put the master on the front, the caliper on the back (which I needed anyway), and it all worked just fine with no rebuilds needed. It all still works to this day. Plus the OEM master has good feel to it like it should. I can put up with a lot of stuff that isn't quite how I wanted it, but I'm pretty OCD about my controls. When I had the front master off of my 97 KX250, I probably spent 10 minutes trying to get it set back just right. Then I took the tools to loosen the bolts with me on a test ride and still stopped 2 or 3 times to adjust the lever height some more.

[knappyfeet]

Be sure to let us know how that caliper works.

Will do.

Removed the tank today so I could wash off the remaining gunk. Now I have a cleaner engine so I can try to pinpoint where the leaks are...... but based on experience and location I'm going to assume the tappet covers need new o rings. I understood the nearly 40 year old finish on the engine is fragile so I decided to use a little gas and a hot water pressure washer instead of just higher pressure. It still managed to remove some of the finish.













I also wanted to get a better idea of where I stood with engine compression. After I removed the carburetor and after about 8 kicks the highest I got was 70 PSI. For me that's a success for a couple of reasons..........one is that I used my Harbor Freight tester that works great with larger cubic inch engines but not good at all for small displacement engines. There is nearly 40 inches from the spark plug fitting to the Schrader valve under the gauge. Based on experience that 70 is probably 120 to 130. Secondly the kick start lever is too far back. I don't know why it is but I can't get good kicks out of it until I move it to its original forward position.....much more forward.

I'm guessing if I can get the kickstart lever in its proper position I can get probably closer to 80 psi…. Which in reality would put me near 140. Still not where it needs to be but it will run.

[patriot1]

Thanks for the tip on the compression tester. I have one from HF also and have questioned it's accuracy.

Amazing what pressure washing will do for an old bike.

[ATC King]

In the last last year I started using LA's Tottally Awesome cleaner for things like engine degreasing and it's been working better than anything else I've ever used.

Attachment 268651
http://www.lastotallyawesome.com/sho...-cleaner-24oz/

I haven't noticed any adverse effects from using it and the grease just falls right off of engines. It's even better than the aircraft grade Simple Green I bought for doing ATV/motorcycle engines. Best part is places like Dollar Tree and Dollar General always have it on the shelf.

[knappyfeet]

Thanks for the tip on the compression tester. I have one from HF also and have questioned it's accuracy.

Amazing what pressure washing will do for an old bike.

I should get a proper one but as of the last 5-7 years I haven't been wrenching on engines. We've been riding way more and during that time wrenching to me was checking tire pressure.

I was using it for an old Cadillac motor we were doing 6-7 years ago and then I tried it on my little Yamaha 90 and got a whole 60 PSI which I thought was weird because it would start. A friend explained to me everything and then it finally made sense. I used it on an old sportster engine and it worked fine for that but these smaller ones not very good.

Sometimes I'm wondering if they're even all that accurate on the larger engines.

[knappyfeet]

This wasn't what I was expecting at all.

Instead of attempting to remove the bowl screws right away I let it soak in WD40 overnight

The clutch cable is frozen, the throttle cable is frozen, the parking brake cable is frozen, etc… I thought in this case the carburetor would be frozen as well but it wasn't. It actually looks like somebody went in there and cleaned it at one point. The throttle assembly is semi frozen so that at least didn't let me down.

At this point I may not order any parts for it. The float assembly and needle seem to be working OK.. I'll take it apart and go through it all the same but once I get my new throttle cable in and everything unstuck in the throttle ........ I'm gonna give it the college try and see if it'll start.

[350for350]

If your true compression is 120-140, that would be excellent considering that it's sit for a long time. Once it runs and everything seats back in, your true compression would be higher.

[knappyfeet]

If your true compression is 120-140, that would be excellent considering that it's sit for a long time. Once it runs and everything seats back in, your true compression would be higher.

I hope so.

I'm anxious just to hear it run. A 70 psi with those lousy kicks, a clean carb and spark (maybe a little faint)...I'm hopeful. To have all the ingredients for a running engine is good but that's not even half the battle. All the seals and gaskets leaking..all the engine noises...things like that are the unknown. To be honest I'm counting on leaky gaskets and seals and valve seals to be the minimum.

So far with the $12 throttle cable I'm at $704. I know it's odd throwing out cost numbers but to me it's a chess game....staying in budget.

[ATC King]

It beging stored assembled and complete is probably why the carb looks as good as it does.

You've still started out with an example that's in better condition than most. Maybe I should pull the carb off of the 300EX that sat in the rain for years to make you feel better.

Looks like everything is going in the right direction for you.

[knappyfeet]

While I'm waiting for a throttle cable and various other parts to see if it will run I decided to work on the headlamp. It was cracked in the back and sat kind of cock eyed with thin wire holding it all in place.......I'm assuming from a previous impact.

I ran some power leads to see if it would work and it works......so I decided to get the Johnny Weld and some super glue and fixed it right up.

Nothing fancy or glamorous but just a small little repair that gains me a little yardage in the game of getting this trike operational again.

[knappyfeet]

A little more disassembly.

I wanted to get a taste of what it would be like to clean up these plastics so I decided to work on the headlight shroud. This little piece was a complete pain in the the ass.....real deep oxidation. Got it about as good as I wanna get it. I could spend another day on it but it's got cracks throughout and it's just a worn piece. For this "rescue" it will suffice.

I really don't want to paint anything but a couple of these black rusted tid bits will get a can blast from leftover semi gloss engine paint. Once you start painting things it's easy to get the urge to refinish everything.....so it's going to be limited.

The parts are in to get it running so this weekend's chore will be to clean the carb... change the oil….. Install the new throttle cable and get it going. But 1st I've got to get this kill switch operational as it's stuck on.

[ATC King]

Painting that headlight shroud was a good choice.

Plastic welding any of those little cracks with the plastic in that condition would be iffy, but there's plastic epoxy that will fill them in pretty well and holds good. A little bit of that plastic epoxy before painting would smooth things out a lot.


Good job on saving that OE headlight housing.