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Thread: Wide Top Bridge Part Number

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2025
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    Mat-Su, Alaska
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    Wide Top Bridge Part Number

    Hello, I’m trying to replace my rusted out steel forks with a new set. The ones I found have a Showa p/n, and are cast aluminum. The problem is, that the old top bridge is too narrow for the new forks. The bolt holes on the new set are about 7 3/4” wide. Does anyone know what the part number is for the wider top bridge? I haven’t had much luck.

    P.S. sorry for the sideways photos.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
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    810
    Welcome…I believe you’re looking for 53231-958-020. That is for an 83’ atc 200 and 84-85 200m, all share the same top bridge.
    A helpful guy here once showed me partzilla. Look up your make model and year. I just spent a few minutes searching for it. It shows 185s-200s share the same top bridge. 200e and 200es share the same. Hopefully this helps you.
    I brought my tundra 24 years ago in anchorage. Still going strong. Sure do miss it there. Good luck with your project.
    Last edited by Jd110; 04-18-2025 at 11:27 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    Those are 185S/200S forks.

    You didn't specify what model of ATC you have or if you're swapping from rigid to a suspension fork. Better information gets better answers.

    I'm guessing you've swapped from a rigid fork, and the top bridge for a rigid fork is narrower than a suspended one, you can't use it. You'll need that part from a 185S/200S fork.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
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    810
    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    Those are 185S/200S forks.

    You didn't specify what model of ATC you have or if you're swapping from rigid to a suspension fork. Better information gets better answers.

    I'm guessing you've swapped from a rigid fork, and the top bridge for a rigid fork is narrower than a suspended one, you can't use it. You'll need that part from a 185S/200S fork.
    I don’t believe they are. Look at his photo. It’s appears to be an 83 or 84 big red. Those have a top bridge that has the holes spaced about 6” plus. Ask me how I know that.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jd110 View Post
    I don’t believe they are. Look at his photo. It’s appears to be an 83 or 84 big red. Those have a top bridge that has the holes spaced about 6” plus. Ask me how I know that.
    That is, for a fact, a 185S/200S fork.


    You're correct that is a E/ES. Doesn't matter though, the original E/ES fork top bridge won't work, it's narrower than the 185S/200S top bridge. Ask me how I know that.

    There isn't anything going on here I haven't done or seen before. It's all pretty cut and dry and also why trying to piece together forks instead of buying complete ones has it's pitfalls. There's enough differences that one must know by only looking, because things like Ebay listings are from ATV dismantelers who are NOT trike enthusiasts and their listings are often incorrect. So many of these trikes have had parts swapped that even reading the VIN is likely to be incorrect for the part.

    If this is setting them back, wait until they find out that fork doesn't accept the E/ES front wheel and tire. The front hubs won't interchange and the bolt patterns are different. Even with modification, using a 25" tire, it will always rub the fender over little bumps. Best, quickest, lowest cost action would be to use smaller rear tires to level it out and just use the 22" front tire. The ideal fork for that swap is from a 200M, but those have the issue of no new front fenders being available, except maybe through Maier, which is $140. Good luck finding a nice used 200M fender, because even if found it'll cost more than that. Fork swaps can get expensive quick, if the whole thing isn't planned out thoroughly, every detail.

    We still don't even know if they've already bought the headlight brackets and bucket for those forks, because the E/ES parts won't work. Obviously, the front rack won't fit either, but that can just be left off. It's not much work to weld tabs on the fork for the rack, but not everyone has a welder.

    Working with limited information.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2025
    Location
    Mat-Su, Alaska
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    Sorry about that, I got sidetracked by a Rhino with a blown head gasket. The wheeler is an ‘83 Atc 200E. The forks are (I think) from an ‘86 Atc 185. The original forks are the spring loaded, welded steel type. Unfortunately, they’ve rusted out, badly.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    That is, for a fact, a 185S/200S fork.


    You're correct that is a E/ES. Doesn't matter though, the original E/ES fork top bridge won't work, it's narrower than the 185S/200S top bridge. Ask me how I know that.

    There isn't anything going on here I haven't done or seen before. It's all pretty cut and dry and also why trying to piece together forks instead of buying complete ones has it's pitfalls. There's enough differences that one must know by only looking, because things like Ebay listings are from ATV dismantelers who are NOT trike enthusiasts and their listings are often incorrect. So many of these trikes have had parts swapped that even reading the VIN is likely to be incorrect for the part.

    If this is setting them back, wait until they find out that fork doesn't accept the E/ES front wheel and tire. The front hubs won't interchange and the bolt patterns are different. Even with modification, using a 25" tire, it will always rub the fender over little bumps. Best, quickest, lowest cost action would be to use smaller rear tires to level it out and just use the 22" front tire. The ideal fork for that swap is from a 200M, but those have the issue of no new front fenders being available, except maybe through Maier, which is $140. Good luck finding a nice used 200M fender, because even if found it'll cost more than that. Fork swaps can get expensive quick, if the whole thing isn't planned out thoroughly, every detail.

    We still don't even know if they've already bought the headlight brackets and bucket for those forks, because the E/ES parts won't work. Obviously, the front rack won't fit either, but that can just be left off. It's not much work to weld tabs on the fork for the rack, but not everyone has a welder.

    Working with limited information.
    Ok, I see now you are correct. Thanks for explaining it after all. Good day to you!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    I bet that head gasket is fun. I would think it'd be easy to get to since the engine is so far forward, but I know there's a lot of stuff to remove on most SxS. I've worked on those a little bit, but never the engine.

    The 200E/ES forks are the worst Honda used on an ATC. They're about like moped forks in design, except with dampers. There's at least a couple questions a potential owner should think about, that's how bad of condition the forks are in and what type of herculean effort will it take to replace the rear brakes. Lucky for you, yours is an E, so you don't have to worry about the condition of the final drive or dealing with the ES rear brakes, because Honda buried them in a vault.

    Honda didn't make a 185 in '86. It doesn't matter if they're 185S or 200S forks either way, they're the same. Some part numbers may have changed during production, but even internal parts swap between year models. If there's any differences big enough to prevent parts changeability, I haven't seen it. Nowadays, it make take two or three forks to get enough parts to assemble a single good one. Pitted and damaged tubes, heavy rust on neglected internals on a trike that just sat outside, worn out legs (tubes ride on the slider parent material, not full bushings), sliders nearly worn through from tire wear (Thanks Trail Pros), cracks from a previous owner trying to remove the seals without proper tools, knowledge, or experience, axle threads about stripped out, studs broken off/stripped out, so being able to swap parts is important.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    Thanks.

    Hardtail fork applications come up quite a bit, and I'll help when I can. I think there's basically four fork types used on the 185/200 trikes. Rigid 185/200, 185S/200S, 200M, 200E/ES, but they'll all bolt on, just not completely functional, like that 185S/200S fork will hit the 200E/ES fuel tank at full lock, so the stops need built up and it'll lose a little turning radius. Even if it happens it just barely clears the tank, it'll hit while riding and dent the tank. I should have mentioned that, but the OP will see this.

    Another difference is even the brakes and axle placement. Some being leading and others being trailing axles, and the brake can be on either side depending on the model. The 200E/ES fork is a leading axle, but the 185S/200S is trailing. It does change the handling feel, but won't make it dangerous or cause major issues. These are not high speed machines, which has advantages, like being able to get away with modifications that'd wreck the handling of a sport trike. It can get confusing and that can lead to wasted time and money.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

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