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Thread: Few 86 Big red questions

  1. #1
    Afrothunderkat's Avatar
    Afrothunderkat is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Few 86 Big red questions

    YO!

    Been going through my 86 BR i picked up, patching things up here and there.

    My electric start doesn't work. Batter is 100% charged, new battery, runs lights. Lights dim and solenoid just clicks when I press the start button. Took the solenoid off today and touched those two wires, pressed the button and nothing happens.

    Here is a video of the clicking sound my solenoid makes, and the sound the starter makes when hand pumping the kicker and givin it a boot. Sounds like a dry bearing? Bad starter?




    Heres a video of my oil pump cover, it leaks even though its tight. Orings look to be good on the cover, do they still need to be replaced? or is it something else. The cover kinda doesn't sit flush in a few spots with the case. That the issue? (ticking sound is the rear bracket holding my muffler on vibrating NOT the motor)




    Also, sound clip of it cutting out. Bit of stutter when you first hit the throttle and likes to cut out at anything past half throttle and spit flames. Backfires and pops WICKED loud. Carb is clean. Going to move needle and check fuel/air screw placement tom. Got a manual. If anyone else has had this problem/knows what it is let me know

    2003 RM 250 ::: 1985 ATC 250R ::: 1986 ATC 250ES
    -----------------------------------------
    Past Trikes: 1985 YTM 225DX ::: 1984 200s ::: 1985 YTM200

    Past Bikes: 1987 KX80BW ::: 2002 TT-R 125L ::: 2000 RM 125

    Quote Originally Posted by Tri-ZNate View Post
    Talking about the build quality, I got their exhaust and economy muffler and it fits together like tossing a hot dog down a hall way with nothing provided to take up the slop. Best $200 ever spent

  2. #2
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    I'll give you props, at least you brought video..consider shooting in the light next time!!

    1/ "My electric start doesn't work. Batter is 100% charged, new battery, runs lights. Lights dim and solenoid just clicks when I press the start button. Took the solenoid off today and touched those two wires, pressed the button and nothing happens."

    Either battery voltage is dropping under load (ie new battery) or the starter is pulling too much currect (ie bad starter)..we can't really answer which is the problem..

    Maybe pull the starter and open it..pretty common for the brushes to go bad. A new set of brushes and a cleaning and you should be golden..

    As for the battery, unless you have a load tester you're going on blind faith. Just because a battery charges doesn't mean its good..

    2/ "Heres a video of my oil pump cover, it leaks even though its tight. Orings look to be good on the cover, do they still need to be replaced? or is it something else. The cover kinda doesn't sit flush in a few spots with the case. That the issue? (ticking sound is the rear bracket holding my muffler on vibrating NOT the motor)"

    This should be easy to figure..take the oil filter cover off and replace the oring. While at it look it over for chips or gouges in the lip of the cap or filter socket..

    3/ "Also, sound clip of it cutting out. Bit of stutter when you first hit the throttle and likes to cut out at anything past half throttle and spit flames. Backfires and pops WICKED loud. Carb is clean. Going to move needle and check fuel/air screw placement tom. Got a manual. If anyone else has had this problem/knows what it is let me know"

    Mixture screw is definitely not your issue..that is the IDLE mixture adjustment. Once off idle it make no difference. Moving the needle from the factory position is rarely ever needed unless some change has been made to the engine or exhaust..so no need to go there.

    Check valve adjustment, exhaust restriction or lack there of, you say the carb is clean..but is it FlyingW clean??

    Suggest you go back to basics and hit the carb again..check and adjust your valves and secure your exhaust.
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

  3. #3
    Afrothunderkat's Avatar
    Afrothunderkat is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougspcs View Post
    I'll give you props, at least you brought video..consider shooting in the light next time!!
    Either battery voltage is dropping under load (ie new battery) or the starter is pulling too much currect (ie bad starter)..we can't really answer which is the problem..

    1 Maybe pull the starter and open it..pretty common for the brushes to go bad. A new set of brushes and a cleaning and you should be golden.. As for the battery, unless you have a load tester you're going on blind faith. Just because a battery charges doesn't mean its good..

    2 This should be easy to figure..take the oil filter cover off and replace the oring. While at it look it over for chips or gouges in the lip of the cap or filter socket..

    3 Mixture screw is definitely not your issue..that is the IDLE mixture adjustment. Once off idle it make no difference. Moving the needle from the factory position is rarely ever needed unless some change has been made to the engine or exhaust..so no need to go there. Check valve adjustment, exhaust restriction or lack there of, you say the carb is clean..but is it FlyingW clean??

    Suggest you go back to basics and hit the carb again..check and adjust your valves and secure your exhaust.
    1. yeah, starter is bad I think. Was thinking about getting a new starter, only $30 but i'll try the brushes. Without battery, the machine pulls 11.15-11.21v at idle and 12.65-12.85 at around 1/4 throttle. battery reads 12.07v-12.10v

    2. Yeah figured, just wanted to make sure it wasn't a common problem with cases warping or something.

    3. It's got an aftermarket exhaust. Needs to be re-jetted? Not sure of the exhaust. Looks to be half homemade, half aftermarket.

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    2003 RM 250 ::: 1985 ATC 250R ::: 1986 ATC 250ES
    -----------------------------------------
    Past Trikes: 1985 YTM 225DX ::: 1984 200s ::: 1985 YTM200

    Past Bikes: 1987 KX80BW ::: 2002 TT-R 125L ::: 2000 RM 125

    Quote Originally Posted by Tri-ZNate View Post
    Talking about the build quality, I got their exhaust and economy muffler and it fits together like tossing a hot dog down a hall way with nothing provided to take up the slop. Best $200 ever spent

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
    --
    3,415
    Quote Originally Posted by Afrothunderkat View Post
    3. It's got an aftermarket exhaust. Needs to be re-jetted? Not sure of the exhaust. Looks to be half homemade, half aftermarket.
    If that exhaust has a significantly different back pressure you may have to rejet!!

    Or see if it was intended to have packing??
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

  5. #5
    Afrothunderkat's Avatar
    Afrothunderkat is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Richmond NH
    --
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougspcs View Post
    If that exhaust has a significantly different back pressure you may have to rejet!!

    Or see if it was intended to have packing??
    It has another baffle inside, non removable. The end cap has a screen and a pipe with several holes in it. Probably a TRX exhaust or something. Sounds good, not too loud until it backfires.

    I have some old FMF 2 stroke packing left over, will that do? or will it melt/fire because thumper mufflers get so hot?
    2003 RM 250 ::: 1985 ATC 250R ::: 1986 ATC 250ES
    -----------------------------------------
    Past Trikes: 1985 YTM 225DX ::: 1984 200s ::: 1985 YTM200

    Past Bikes: 1987 KX80BW ::: 2002 TT-R 125L ::: 2000 RM 125

    Quote Originally Posted by Tri-ZNate View Post
    Talking about the build quality, I got their exhaust and economy muffler and it fits together like tossing a hot dog down a hall way with nothing provided to take up the slop. Best $200 ever spent

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
    --
    3,415
    Quote Originally Posted by Afrothunderkat View Post
    It has another baffle inside, non removable. The end cap has a screen and a pipe with several holes in it. Probably a TRX exhaust or something. Sounds good, not too loud until it backfires.

    I have some old FMF 2 stroke packing left over, will that do? or will it melt/fire because thumper mufflers get so hot?
    Hard to say..you can always pack it in there and go for a spin.

    If it provides a bit more back pressure and stops the backfiring at least you've learned something.

    Might save you a lot of hassle rejetting your carb..since that would only band aid the problem. Maybe all you really need is to put the correct muffler on it!

    If it doesn't make any difference you take it back out and move on to the next idea!
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

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